After paying an extortionate amount of money to our driver we managed to leave Kandy at 7.30 and head to the Pinnewala Elephant orphanage. There are hundreds of elephants, some who are blind due to being shot, one with 3 legs after standing on a mine, an earless one caught in a mine etc. lots of cute little baby ones being fed milk from a bottle too. Seemed a little weird that we were just wandering in amongst them and hoping they didnt decide to trample on us when tourists were taking pictures of their babies but appears not. They did kill a couple of rangers the week before though!!
Next stop- white water rafting in Kitugala. Fantastic Grade 3/4 rapids on the River that they filmed Bridge over the River Kwai on (yes, you read that right, not Thailand!!) Managed to just about stay in before being tossed out for 'Body drifting' (alive not dead fortunately!) Tried not to think too much about what else was swimming in the river with us, but obviously we weren't tasty enough that day.
After a brief shower, we headed off to our third destination of the day (will need a holiday soon!) Dalhousie, at the foot of Adams Peak. Lotty was in the land of nod so didn't see all the check points and guns being pointed at her, but she seemed quite happy. Arrived in Dalhousie to discover it had closed a few weeks earlier when the season ended and there was really no one there. A mad man in a grey fleece was sent by the Mafia Don to greet us as Kandy Mafia had pre-booked us into the Green House. It was certainly 5 star at 1.25 pound each a night, and that even included your very own cockroach and lizard. We were then summoned to sit before Mafia Don 2 who pretends to be blind and wears very dodgey Stevie Wonder sunglasses. He insisted that we needed a guide up the mountain which he would arrange from one of his men, "just in case we needed a witness if anything happened" Not sure if that was in case he needed a 'witness' in case we were bumped off on the mountain or in case we needed a witness for something!
Dinner with a mad newly released from a Pakastani jail Dutchman, who shared with us his personal experiences of getting Hep B from sleeping with prostitutes who insist on keeping the light off and getting sexual favours from senior foreign ministers in return for drugs.....but apparently he was most definitely not gay. Still working that one out!
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Sharon Inn and the Mafia
Shron Inn people proved to be very helpful although when we said he was well connected, we didn't quite realise how well connected!
Seems there is a controlled tourist market in Sri Lanka and once you are sucked into it, it is very hard to escape. Our helpful man made phone calls to all his friends in various places in relation to anything we wanted to do, arranged drivers to take us only to his friend's places and once there, if we tried to arrange our own drivers, he would be notified by his subjects and then call to talk to us. Seems the way to spot a Sri Lankan mafia Don is as follows:
Not skinny like many Sri Lankan men
Wearing Stevie Wonder sunglasses and pretending to be blind
Having a lot of men running around after you in your house
At least 7 telephones in the house....possibly more
Regularly summoning tourists (via the associated staff) to sit before them
Being extremely helpful, as long as you agree with whatever they say
We have now managed to escape by befriending a driver, who had a rather large soft spot for Jen (possibly because he worked for the same company as she does!!) We refused to tell Mafia man 2 which driver we had booked, escaped early and hid in the town for collection although mafia men had worked it out and already called him. Fortunately he refused to tell them where we are staying and a whole series of lies was concocted.
Hopefully we are now off the radar and lying low in Bentota!!!
Seems there is a controlled tourist market in Sri Lanka and once you are sucked into it, it is very hard to escape. Our helpful man made phone calls to all his friends in various places in relation to anything we wanted to do, arranged drivers to take us only to his friend's places and once there, if we tried to arrange our own drivers, he would be notified by his subjects and then call to talk to us. Seems the way to spot a Sri Lankan mafia Don is as follows:
Not skinny like many Sri Lankan men
Wearing Stevie Wonder sunglasses and pretending to be blind
Having a lot of men running around after you in your house
At least 7 telephones in the house....possibly more
Regularly summoning tourists (via the associated staff) to sit before them
Being extremely helpful, as long as you agree with whatever they say
We have now managed to escape by befriending a driver, who had a rather large soft spot for Jen (possibly because he worked for the same company as she does!!) We refused to tell Mafia man 2 which driver we had booked, escaped early and hid in the town for collection although mafia men had worked it out and already called him. Fortunately he refused to tell them where we are staying and a whole series of lies was concocted.
Hopefully we are now off the radar and lying low in Bentota!!!
Ancient city and cake
Found a lovely little guest house with fantastic local food, finally! Owners were very helpful and suggested an ancient city tour on 22/05/08.
Sigriya ancient city was situated on a massive rock which we had to climb up in 30 degree heat. Not such a good idea! Very beautiful with amazing views. One advantage of a being foreign is that we were allowed to see some of the preserved paintings inside the caves - 20Rs. :)
Next we went to see Dambula, which was a series of 5 ancient caves on the top of another big hill which were full of Buddahs. Not sure if I could be Buddhist as you would need to be very fit to walk to all the temples!!
We rewarded ourselves with a late night excursion to the local Bake House. We were told off by an old lady who informed us that Sri Lankan women shouldn't be out after 6pm!!!
Sigriya ancient city was situated on a massive rock which we had to climb up in 30 degree heat. Not such a good idea! Very beautiful with amazing views. One advantage of a being foreign is that we were allowed to see some of the preserved paintings inside the caves - 20Rs. :)
Next we went to see Dambula, which was a series of 5 ancient caves on the top of another big hill which were full of Buddahs. Not sure if I could be Buddhist as you would need to be very fit to walk to all the temples!!
We rewarded ourselves with a late night excursion to the local Bake House. We were told off by an old lady who informed us that Sri Lankan women shouldn't be out after 6pm!!!
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Bomb in Kandy
In case anyone has been diligent enough to read the paper, yes there has been another bomb in Kandy this morning BUT WE ARE FINE!!!
Seems a bomb was placed on a railway line to catch a train full of school kids and commuters. This has reinforced our no buses/trains approach and perfected our driver hiring negotiation skills. As a result of all this tension, we are literally the only tourists in Sri Lanka it seems. Spotting 'foreigners' is our new past time, although yet to succeed.
Seems a bomb was placed on a railway line to catch a train full of school kids and commuters. This has reinforced our no buses/trains approach and perfected our driver hiring negotiation skills. As a result of all this tension, we are literally the only tourists in Sri Lanka it seems. Spotting 'foreigners' is our new past time, although yet to succeed.
Mr Jacks
Never speak to a man called Mr Jacks! We were warned against the crazy tuktuk driver but ended up bumping into him anyway on our mission to get to the Botanical Gardens. After refusing to pay 200 rupees more than the suggested rate, he then proceeded to jump out of his tuktuk and chase us down the street shouting at any other tuktuks that stopped for us, and then when one finally did, he jumped back in his tuktuk and tried to run us over!! What a lovely man.
Botanical gardens promised a cup of tea but sadly we were denied (due to closure not misbehaviour!) Otherwise lots of pretty flowers and couples doing PDAs in trees with the monkeys.
Then headed up a very steep hill to visit the big buddha to wish him a belated birthday. I am sure he was grateful, or maybe just the guy in the gift shop that managed to sell us a couple of books on 'The Nitty Gritty of Buddhism'.
After such religious exploits, miracles did indeed happen as we managed to find 'The Pub' selling....wait for it....Alcohol!!!! Sadly we had to wait 15 minutes for our Gin and tonics due to licencing laws or soemthing by which time, we were pretty much gagging.
Abstinence broken, we returned to our friendly and cheaper, B&B, a whole 7 pounds per night after our retreat experience! We finally managed to find our first Sri Lankan curry, and was certainly worth waiting for!
Botanical gardens promised a cup of tea but sadly we were denied (due to closure not misbehaviour!) Otherwise lots of pretty flowers and couples doing PDAs in trees with the monkeys.
Then headed up a very steep hill to visit the big buddha to wish him a belated birthday. I am sure he was grateful, or maybe just the guy in the gift shop that managed to sell us a couple of books on 'The Nitty Gritty of Buddhism'.
After such religious exploits, miracles did indeed happen as we managed to find 'The Pub' selling....wait for it....Alcohol!!!! Sadly we had to wait 15 minutes for our Gin and tonics due to licencing laws or soemthing by which time, we were pretty much gagging.
Abstinence broken, we returned to our friendly and cheaper, B&B, a whole 7 pounds per night after our retreat experience! We finally managed to find our first Sri Lankan curry, and was certainly worth waiting for!
The best mosquito repellant
If you want the best mosquito repellant, then take Jen on holiday with you. They LOVE her :)
Luxuary in Kandy - a true backpacking experience
To ease us into the holiday, we decided to book into one of the most expensive Ayurvedic Spa Retreat and to give Ayurvedic massages a second chance. This time we booked WOMEN!!! No more groping for us!!
Ventured out to the town centre in search of alcohol and fun times and discovered a party of about 10 thousand people. However, no alcohol, no fun and dodgy food. Yes, it was Buddha's birthday and he didn't want a drink and anyone else to for that matter!
After a fried Pot Noodle and dodging loads of police, we decided to retreat back to our retreat :) For a non-alcoholic cocktail :( and a night swim! For some reason the waiter did come and suggest that a tuktuk man might go and get us a bottle of 'Black Market' Gin for the right price :) We must have looked desperate swimming round the pool!
Ventured out to the town centre in search of alcohol and fun times and discovered a party of about 10 thousand people. However, no alcohol, no fun and dodgy food. Yes, it was Buddha's birthday and he didn't want a drink and anyone else to for that matter!
After a fried Pot Noodle and dodging loads of police, we decided to retreat back to our retreat :) For a non-alcoholic cocktail :( and a night swim! For some reason the waiter did come and suggest that a tuktuk man might go and get us a bottle of 'Black Market' Gin for the right price :) We must have looked desperate swimming round the pool!
Off to Kandy.....
A day spent trying to negotiate a car to take us to Kandy - negotiating skills need to be worked on. Was basing negotiating on India rates and not taking the hike in fuel into account. Oops!
In bed by 9pm with no alcohol and pretty much cold turkey! Jen read and I broke out in cold sweats!!!
I need alcohol!!!!!!!!!!
In bed by 9pm with no alcohol and pretty much cold turkey! Jen read and I broke out in cold sweats!!!
I need alcohol!!!!!!!!!!
The long road to Negombo.......
Having finally made it to Sri Lanka and on advice NOT to stay in Negombo, we decided to venture there anyway :) Typical!! Found an 'interesting' hotel called the Icebear - a little bit of Suissness in Sri Lanka!! Nice hotel, shame it was empty save for the 3 ducks!
Had what can only be described as an expensive grope. It wasn't a pleasure but at least I didn't have mine in the dark.....LOL Jen was blind groped! If you hadn't guessed it, it was our first experiece of an Ayurvedic Massage - it does get better :)
The most positive thing about the hotel is that it actually serves alcohol. It's amazing how obsessed you become about alcohol when it is banned due to a festival. Having wandered into a restaurant with a forlorn look on our faces, an Italian waiter took pity on us and offered us a Cappucino at the bar - nudge, nudge, wink, wink and we managed a swift beer! In Cappucino mugs and listed on the bill as 'Cappucino' :)
Interesting walk back to the hotel with 2 dogs attached back to back to back via one tail - you work it out. We are still traumatized by the experience. We were then followed by a drunk bloke on a bike and chased down a alley by a mad Tuktuk driver - managed to give him the slip by running over the beach - where the FCO advice women not to go alone!!!
Had what can only be described as an expensive grope. It wasn't a pleasure but at least I didn't have mine in the dark.....LOL Jen was blind groped! If you hadn't guessed it, it was our first experiece of an Ayurvedic Massage - it does get better :)
The most positive thing about the hotel is that it actually serves alcohol. It's amazing how obsessed you become about alcohol when it is banned due to a festival. Having wandered into a restaurant with a forlorn look on our faces, an Italian waiter took pity on us and offered us a Cappucino at the bar - nudge, nudge, wink, wink and we managed a swift beer! In Cappucino mugs and listed on the bill as 'Cappucino' :)
Interesting walk back to the hotel with 2 dogs attached back to back to back via one tail - you work it out. We are still traumatized by the experience. We were then followed by a drunk bloke on a bike and chased down a alley by a mad Tuktuk driver - managed to give him the slip by running over the beach - where the FCO advice women not to go alone!!!
Monday, May 19, 2008
A touch of extravagance to start the backpacking adventure!
It was a stroke of luck that Qatar airways was sharing the United lounge and it would have been rude not to go to the United lounge whilst at T 3!
Four Seasons might have been a little extravagant to have a sandwich and a couple of glasses of wine for £75!! But the views on the beach were worth it.
Doha must mean 'building site' because everything was in varying states of being built! Quite strange!
Managed to get back on the plane without Jen trying to sell me to the Sheikh on the next table after seeing the bill at the Four Seasons! Surely I am worth more than 2 Camels!!!
Four Seasons might have been a little extravagant to have a sandwich and a couple of glasses of wine for £75!! But the views on the beach were worth it.
Doha must mean 'building site' because everything was in varying states of being built! Quite strange!
Managed to get back on the plane without Jen trying to sell me to the Sheikh on the next table after seeing the bill at the Four Seasons! Surely I am worth more than 2 Camels!!!
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Things just get better.....
Just as we arrive, it is the Buddhist festival of Vesak. Apparently, the country will adhering to the following:
Not to kill
Not to steal
Not to engage in improper activity (which is?!?!)
Not to indulge in wrong speech (That will be hard)
Not to take intoxicating drinks and drugs (this is supposed to be a holiday.....no vino :()
To abstain from taking food at unreasonable times (when is a reasonable time?!?!?!)
To refrain from sensual pleasures such as dancing, singing and self-adornment (LOL I'll be able to keep this if I don't drink!)
To refrain from using high and luxurious seats in order to practice humility. (WTF?!?!?)
So, we arrive and we can't drink. Might have to hit Duty Free :) Guess it will be good practice for the tubes when we get back thanks to Boris!!!
Not to kill
Not to steal
Not to engage in improper activity (which is?!?!)
Not to indulge in wrong speech (That will be hard)
Not to take intoxicating drinks and drugs (this is supposed to be a holiday.....no vino :()
To abstain from taking food at unreasonable times (when is a reasonable time?!?!?!)
To refrain from sensual pleasures such as dancing, singing and self-adornment (LOL I'll be able to keep this if I don't drink!)
To refrain from using high and luxurious seats in order to practice humility. (WTF?!?!?)
So, we arrive and we can't drink. Might have to hit Duty Free :) Guess it will be good practice for the tubes when we get back thanks to Boris!!!
Places to avoid......
Having read the FCO website, I guess we just need to avoid or take note of the following over the next 2 weeks:
1) Signs warning about the danger from landmines and do not step off metalled roads.
2) Avoid travel to the north and east of Sri Lanka, and to Yala National Park.
3) Avoid cafe's in Ampara.
4) Avoid taking the bus in Colombo.
5) Avoid public events.
6) Avoid Welioya.
7) Avoid railway stations.
8) Basically, avoid ALL buses and trains!
9) Don't use credit cards as credit card fraud is a problem.
10) Ensure that we leave army trousers, boots and my camouflage t-shirt at home.
11) Don't take a photo of a VIP because you will be detained. Any idea what a VIP in Sri Lanka looks like?!?
http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travelling-and-living-overseas/travel-advice-by-country/asia-oceania/sri-lanka
This trip could get interesting :)
1) Signs warning about the danger from landmines and do not step off metalled roads.
2) Avoid travel to the north and east of Sri Lanka, and to Yala National Park.
3) Avoid cafe's in Ampara.
4) Avoid taking the bus in Colombo.
5) Avoid public events.
6) Avoid Welioya.
7) Avoid railway stations.
8) Basically, avoid ALL buses and trains!
9) Don't use credit cards as credit card fraud is a problem.
10) Ensure that we leave army trousers, boots and my camouflage t-shirt at home.
11) Don't take a photo of a VIP because you will be detained. Any idea what a VIP in Sri Lanka looks like?!?
http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travelling-and-living-overseas/travel-advice-by-country/asia-oceania/sri-lanka
This trip could get interesting :)
Thursday, May 8, 2008
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